BQTC#6 Squaring Your Fabric and Preparing for Cutting
15/10/08 21:01 Filed in: BQTC #6
Squaring Fabric
It's hard to believe that yards and yards of fabric are made up of thousands, if not millions, of tiny little threads, all tightly woven together. These threads run in two different directions, lengthways and crossways. This is what's referred to as the grain of the fabric. Consider the length of the fabric, wrapping around the bolt to create one continuous piece about 15 yards long. This is the lengthwise grain. Now think of the fabric in the opposite direction, running selvage to selvage about 44 inches. These threads are the cross grain. (The selvage is the 'finished' edge of the fabric. It will have small holes pierced through out the length and this is where you will see the manufacturer or name of the fabric line, for example Moda, Northcott, or Hoffman.)
In this image, the lengthwise grain runs left to right.
Here you see the selvage up close, this fabric is manufactured by Northcott.
Ideally when you are cutting your fabric, you would like to cut along one single thread for the entire cut. This would give you a straight square piece of fabric which will lay flat without twisting or turning when sewn into your quilt or garment. This is especially important when cutting for borders, where the pieces of fabric are larger and the grain is more evident. The first step is make sure your fabric is folded correctly. It is best to work with pieces no larger than one yard at a time so the fabric is easy to manage. When you purchased your fabric, it was folded in half, with the selvage edges together. Separate the two sides, so you are holding one selvage, with the other edge hanging down by your knees somewhere. The fabric may have looked square after the cutting, but it was very likely not! Keeping the first selvage side in your hands, fold the fabric again, with the wrong sides together, so you are holding both selvages in your hands. Keep your index fingers between the two layers so you can manipulate the layers to the left and right as needed.
Now just to get an idea, of what the heck I am talking about (!), take the fabric closest to you, and move it as far to the left as you can, while keeping the other side in place. You will see a 'belly" build up along the bottom fold of your fabric. This bulge tells you that the threads are not lined up the way they should be. Shift the fabric back towards middle and watch how the bulge disappears as the fabric lines up straight again. Move the fabric once more to the right to see how the bulge will accumulate on the other half. Manipulate your layers, and match your selvages together until the fabric sits straight without a bulge. You will notice how the fabric bulges even if it is shifted only a small amount.
In these examples, the top layer of fabric has been shifted to the right, in order to show the belly or bulge of fabric NOT square.
At this point, lay your fabric on your cutting mat, with the selvage ends away from you. Align the fold, as best as you can, along the one inch cutting line. Now look at the cut, raw edge of the fabric, where it was cut at the quilt shop. See how the two layers no longer line up? This is the bit of fabric which must be trimmed away in order to finish the squaring process. Your first cut will be on the left hand side of the fabric. Place your ruler over the raw edge, making sure to cover enough fabric to cut a straight line through both layers. This will only cut off about a quarter to half an inch of fabric, and will leave you with a clean straight edge. Now your fabric is squared and ready for cutting!
Here is my thumb, lining up the fold with the one inch line on my cutting mat.
At the top you can see the see the raw edge I need to trim off in order to square the fabric.
Lining up the ruler to cut a nice straight square edge....
TADA! The uneven edge is gone and my fabric is now square!
It's hard to believe that yards and yards of fabric are made up of thousands, if not millions, of tiny little threads, all tightly woven together. These threads run in two different directions, lengthways and crossways. This is what's referred to as the grain of the fabric. Consider the length of the fabric, wrapping around the bolt to create one continuous piece about 15 yards long. This is the lengthwise grain. Now think of the fabric in the opposite direction, running selvage to selvage about 44 inches. These threads are the cross grain. (The selvage is the 'finished' edge of the fabric. It will have small holes pierced through out the length and this is where you will see the manufacturer or name of the fabric line, for example Moda, Northcott, or Hoffman.)
In this image, the lengthwise grain runs left to right.
Here you see the selvage up close, this fabric is manufactured by Northcott.
Ideally when you are cutting your fabric, you would like to cut along one single thread for the entire cut. This would give you a straight square piece of fabric which will lay flat without twisting or turning when sewn into your quilt or garment. This is especially important when cutting for borders, where the pieces of fabric are larger and the grain is more evident. The first step is make sure your fabric is folded correctly. It is best to work with pieces no larger than one yard at a time so the fabric is easy to manage. When you purchased your fabric, it was folded in half, with the selvage edges together. Separate the two sides, so you are holding one selvage, with the other edge hanging down by your knees somewhere. The fabric may have looked square after the cutting, but it was very likely not! Keeping the first selvage side in your hands, fold the fabric again, with the wrong sides together, so you are holding both selvages in your hands. Keep your index fingers between the two layers so you can manipulate the layers to the left and right as needed.
Now just to get an idea, of what the heck I am talking about (!), take the fabric closest to you, and move it as far to the left as you can, while keeping the other side in place. You will see a 'belly" build up along the bottom fold of your fabric. This bulge tells you that the threads are not lined up the way they should be. Shift the fabric back towards middle and watch how the bulge disappears as the fabric lines up straight again. Move the fabric once more to the right to see how the bulge will accumulate on the other half. Manipulate your layers, and match your selvages together until the fabric sits straight without a bulge. You will notice how the fabric bulges even if it is shifted only a small amount.
In these examples, the top layer of fabric has been shifted to the right, in order to show the belly or bulge of fabric NOT square.
At this point, lay your fabric on your cutting mat, with the selvage ends away from you. Align the fold, as best as you can, along the one inch cutting line. Now look at the cut, raw edge of the fabric, where it was cut at the quilt shop. See how the two layers no longer line up? This is the bit of fabric which must be trimmed away in order to finish the squaring process. Your first cut will be on the left hand side of the fabric. Place your ruler over the raw edge, making sure to cover enough fabric to cut a straight line through both layers. This will only cut off about a quarter to half an inch of fabric, and will leave you with a clean straight edge. Now your fabric is squared and ready for cutting!
Here is my thumb, lining up the fold with the one inch line on my cutting mat.
At the top you can see the see the raw edge I need to trim off in order to square the fabric.
Lining up the ruler to cut a nice straight square edge....
TADA! The uneven edge is gone and my fabric is now square!
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BQTC #5 Sewing Machines and Attachments
17/09/08 01:18 Filed in: BQTC #5
First let me tell you
that most quilters have different opinions about what
kind of machine is needed to start quilting. Some will
suggest that any sewing machine will do well others
can’t live without all the bells and whistles that come
on most of the newer machines on the market today. Here
is my experience with sewing machines followed by a
break down of some of the features you may want to
consider when choosing a machine for quilting.
When I learned to sew, I used an older Pfaff of my Mom's. It was about 25 years old but the machine was a work horse! You would never guess that it had so much experience, as it still ran so well. Eventually the day came when I wanted for more. Of course it didn't help that my Mother had the top of the line Janome with every possible feature a quilter could ever dream of.
Not only that, but she would constantly remind me of how much she loved her machine. You'd think she was on commission or something! I took a good week to shop around and check out very single store in my area. I researched many different brands, considered computerized vs manual, and went home to think about it all. I spent another day on the computer reading reviews and feedback from sewers and quilters.
Then my hubby and I talked about the options. I had resigned myself to purchasing an affordable, practical manual Janome. It was top of the line for manual machines, and came with a quilter's package which was a big bonus for me. Then Matty asked me if would really be happy with that machine. Was it the machine that I REALLY wanted? I answered that no, I'd really prefer the computerized Janome like my Mom's ( which just happened to be on sale... at half price!) because it had EVERYTHING under the sun and would probably last me much much longer. Well wouldn't you know it? That lovely husband of mine went out and bought me the big machine and the rolling case to boot! I must say that I am one lucky quilter.
Now that I have had the machine for a while, there are definitely features that I couldn't live without. Some advantages for quilter's are: needle threader, thread cutter, stitch in place function, separate bobbin winder, knee lifter, extension table, and decorative stitches. Attachments that I could not live without: 1/4 inch presser foot, clear see through applique foot, walking foot, and hopping foot. These are all quilting presser feet for sewing machines and may or may not be included with the machine. I know that Janome and Pfaff both offer quilter's toolbox kits which can be purchased separately if your machine did not come with them.
So now that I've bragged about all these fabulous features, I'll tell you a little about each one. This will allow you to decide what you need and don't need, plus it gives you some fancy lingo to throw around when you visit the sewing machine shop!
1) Needle Threader: This is a tiny wee hook which will poke through the needle to catch your thread and pull it through the eye. It is more a convenience than necessity unless you have weak eyes or wear glasses.
2) Thread cutter: The blade of the cutter is built into the machine and can be activated by pressing a button. The blade will cut the bobbin and top thread nice and short, which really saves on thread and time. However if you own scissors, it is just as easy to quickly snip your threads which makes this feature a convenience.
3) Stitch in Place Function: If you do not like to backstitch, this feature is for you. On my Janome, this function will take 3 stitches without advancing the fabric. This secures the beginning and ending of your seams with out the puckering that comes with back stitching.
4) Separate Bobbin Winder : A great feature which allows you to continue sewing while your bobbins are winding. However if you plan ahead, you could easily wind several bobbins worth of thread and not even have to worry about the bobbin refills.
5) Knee Lifter : This is a hands free way to lift the presser foot, which allows you to keep your hands on the fabic at all times. It is one function I would highly recommend unless you have weak knees or hips. In which case you could find the rotating movement to strenuous on your joints.
6) Extension Table: This sturdy table extends the bed of the sewing machine to a space that measures about 18 inches by 24 inches. It allows you to easily maneuver your quilts and keep all your piecing close at hand.
7) Decorative Stitches: A variety of stitches is great to have, but consider how often you will actually use them. If you also make a lot of garments, or linens, then having hundreds of stitches will be beneficial for you. However most sewers can get by with a simple straight stitch, zig zag, and button hole options.
8) 1/4 inch Presser Foot: This is the one attachment that is a MUST. For accurate piecing and seam allowances, this presser foot foot will keep you right on track. Before I had one, I tried many different ways of measuring and guiding the fabric to keep my 1/4 inch seam allowance. None were as successful as this wonderful invention. I consider this one to be a necessity.
9) Clear See Through Applique Foot: Being able to see through the presser foot is important for applique, as you need to see the edge of the fabric for accuracy. The opening is extra wide for the side to side motion of most applique stitches. If you plan to a lot of machine applique, this one is a must for you.
10) Walking Foot: A big clunky presser which feeds the fabric on top, working along with the feed dogs under the fabric. This keeps the fabric moving evenly which is very important when quilting several layers of fabric with batting stuffed between. If you plan to do a lot of machine quilting (vs. sending your quilts out to be done on a long arm machine) then a walking foot will be very helpful for you.
11)Hopping Foot: Also know as Darning Foot. This foot maintains no pressure on the fabric and can be used while the feed dogs are disengaged. In quilting this foot is used for free motion quilting to allow you to move your fabric freely in any direction you choose. The stitches are not regulated by the feed dogs so care must be taken to sew and move fabric at a consistent speed. Free motion quilting is great fun, and I highly recommend having this foot for your machine.
Having this information should make your search for the ideal quilting/ sewing machine a little bit easier. When it comes time to purchase your machine, buy from a reputable dealer who offers some sort of service warranty. Many dealers even sell second hand machines that have been serviced and will also come with a warranty and/ or lessons. Contact your local machine sales shop to find out more details, and be sure to take your time and do lots of research. Be sure that you find the machine that is best for you, rather than spontaneously purchasing the first great one you see.
As always, feel free to contact me with your questions or concerns, I am always happy to help!}
When I learned to sew, I used an older Pfaff of my Mom's. It was about 25 years old but the machine was a work horse! You would never guess that it had so much experience, as it still ran so well. Eventually the day came when I wanted for more. Of course it didn't help that my Mother had the top of the line Janome with every possible feature a quilter could ever dream of.
Not only that, but she would constantly remind me of how much she loved her machine. You'd think she was on commission or something! I took a good week to shop around and check out very single store in my area. I researched many different brands, considered computerized vs manual, and went home to think about it all. I spent another day on the computer reading reviews and feedback from sewers and quilters.
Then my hubby and I talked about the options. I had resigned myself to purchasing an affordable, practical manual Janome. It was top of the line for manual machines, and came with a quilter's package which was a big bonus for me. Then Matty asked me if would really be happy with that machine. Was it the machine that I REALLY wanted? I answered that no, I'd really prefer the computerized Janome like my Mom's ( which just happened to be on sale... at half price!) because it had EVERYTHING under the sun and would probably last me much much longer. Well wouldn't you know it? That lovely husband of mine went out and bought me the big machine and the rolling case to boot! I must say that I am one lucky quilter.
Now that I have had the machine for a while, there are definitely features that I couldn't live without. Some advantages for quilter's are: needle threader, thread cutter, stitch in place function, separate bobbin winder, knee lifter, extension table, and decorative stitches. Attachments that I could not live without: 1/4 inch presser foot, clear see through applique foot, walking foot, and hopping foot. These are all quilting presser feet for sewing machines and may or may not be included with the machine. I know that Janome and Pfaff both offer quilter's toolbox kits which can be purchased separately if your machine did not come with them.
So now that I've bragged about all these fabulous features, I'll tell you a little about each one. This will allow you to decide what you need and don't need, plus it gives you some fancy lingo to throw around when you visit the sewing machine shop!
The Bells and Whistles
1) Needle Threader: This is a tiny wee hook which will poke through the needle to catch your thread and pull it through the eye. It is more a convenience than necessity unless you have weak eyes or wear glasses.
2) Thread cutter: The blade of the cutter is built into the machine and can be activated by pressing a button. The blade will cut the bobbin and top thread nice and short, which really saves on thread and time. However if you own scissors, it is just as easy to quickly snip your threads which makes this feature a convenience.
3) Stitch in Place Function: If you do not like to backstitch, this feature is for you. On my Janome, this function will take 3 stitches without advancing the fabric. This secures the beginning and ending of your seams with out the puckering that comes with back stitching.
4) Separate Bobbin Winder : A great feature which allows you to continue sewing while your bobbins are winding. However if you plan ahead, you could easily wind several bobbins worth of thread and not even have to worry about the bobbin refills.
5) Knee Lifter : This is a hands free way to lift the presser foot, which allows you to keep your hands on the fabic at all times. It is one function I would highly recommend unless you have weak knees or hips. In which case you could find the rotating movement to strenuous on your joints.
6) Extension Table: This sturdy table extends the bed of the sewing machine to a space that measures about 18 inches by 24 inches. It allows you to easily maneuver your quilts and keep all your piecing close at hand.
7) Decorative Stitches: A variety of stitches is great to have, but consider how often you will actually use them. If you also make a lot of garments, or linens, then having hundreds of stitches will be beneficial for you. However most sewers can get by with a simple straight stitch, zig zag, and button hole options.
8) 1/4 inch Presser Foot: This is the one attachment that is a MUST. For accurate piecing and seam allowances, this presser foot foot will keep you right on track. Before I had one, I tried many different ways of measuring and guiding the fabric to keep my 1/4 inch seam allowance. None were as successful as this wonderful invention. I consider this one to be a necessity.
9) Clear See Through Applique Foot: Being able to see through the presser foot is important for applique, as you need to see the edge of the fabric for accuracy. The opening is extra wide for the side to side motion of most applique stitches. If you plan to a lot of machine applique, this one is a must for you.
10) Walking Foot: A big clunky presser which feeds the fabric on top, working along with the feed dogs under the fabric. This keeps the fabric moving evenly which is very important when quilting several layers of fabric with batting stuffed between. If you plan to do a lot of machine quilting (vs. sending your quilts out to be done on a long arm machine) then a walking foot will be very helpful for you.
11)Hopping Foot: Also know as Darning Foot. This foot maintains no pressure on the fabric and can be used while the feed dogs are disengaged. In quilting this foot is used for free motion quilting to allow you to move your fabric freely in any direction you choose. The stitches are not regulated by the feed dogs so care must be taken to sew and move fabric at a consistent speed. Free motion quilting is great fun, and I highly recommend having this foot for your machine.
Having this information should make your search for the ideal quilting/ sewing machine a little bit easier. When it comes time to purchase your machine, buy from a reputable dealer who offers some sort of service warranty. Many dealers even sell second hand machines that have been serviced and will also come with a warranty and/ or lessons. Contact your local machine sales shop to find out more details, and be sure to take your time and do lots of research. Be sure that you find the machine that is best for you, rather than spontaneously purchasing the first great one you see.
As always, feel free to contact me with your questions or concerns, I am always happy to help!}
BQTC #4 Quilting Tools
31/08/08 14:32 Filed in: BQTC #4
Welcome back quilters!
As usual, I have been busy quilting and nearly forgot to put this lesson up this week. I got side tracked putting together the perfect Beginner Block of The Month Club
Anyway, on with this week’s lesson.
So far in our series, we have discussed choosing quilting patterns, selecting fabric for our projects, and what threads are suitable for quilting.
This time around I would like to introduce you to the tools that you will need to get quilting. If you haven't already begun shopping for these items then let me prepare you for the reality which you will soon face. Quilting is not a cheap hobby. There is an investment to be made; acquiring tools which make quilting easy, fast, and fun.
However, if you are the type of person who cares for and looks after their belongings, then these tools, will truly last you many many years. Perhaps you are asking "Why do I need all these expensive rulers, cutters, etc?'. To be totally honest.... you can get by without. It's true.
You could simply purchase some good quality scissors, and some template plastic. You could spend hours and hours, tracing the templates onto fabric swatches, and then spend hours longer cutting all those little bits of fabric out. Let me tell you though, that professional quilters, have spent loads of time designing and producing products which are meant to save the average quilters time - and mind.
I have personally encountered many quilters who believed in the early days, that they would rather quilt like their Grandma, using templates, and good old scissors. Want to know what everyone of them admitted? Those early projects still sit, stuffed in some closet, forgotten and neglected, because, they did not want to invest the time that was actually needed to complete them! Now that is a shame, and a big waste of money!
So here, I will show you just the basics, the bare essentials that you will need, and at the end, I will provide you with sources to find these products, in case they are not readily available in your area.
First, meet The Rotary Cutter.
Always close the protective cover when not in use, even if you are intending to use it again right away. You never know what could happen! My first rotary cutter was Unique brand, and came in a beginner quilter package with a ruler and cutting mat. It worked very well for my beginner projects, but I wore it out quite quickly - along with the rest of the tools.
Luckily it was a gift from my Mommy, so my first investment in tools went straight towards top of the line brands. The best brand for rotary cutters is OLFA. I have also found Fiskars (a brand designed for scrapbookers) to be very good.
What to look for in a cutter
There are 3 sizes of rotary cutter available. The smallest is 30 mm, then 45 mm, and lastly 60 mm. The most common and the size I would recommend is the 45 mm. I'm sure you will discover a need for the other sizes for some future project, but the 45 mm will get you off to a great start. There are several different types of handles available as well.
Some have pretty designs, some are pink in support of beast cancer, there are special blade covers, and even ergonomic handles.
Personally, I purchased a plain straight handled basic rotary cutter by OLFA. My Mom has an ergonomic one that she swears is the best thing EVER. It was quite pricey, but she can even cut fabric while sitting which could be good when cutting like a queen size quilt.
Next, The Rotary Cutting Mat.
One should never cut on a angle, or you will end up with damage to the mat. The cutting mats must always be stored flat since they warp very easily, and you never, ever want to expose to hot or cold. This means do not buy it on your lunch hour and keep it in your trunk on a hot sunny day.
These mats will curl and warp and crack if not treated nicely, and then.... you have to buy another one!
So what do I put on my shopping list?
The minimum size of cutting mat that you should purchase is 18 by 24 inches. This will give you enough room to complete any project, and the mat is still very portable. Personally I bought a huge 24 by 36 inches, but it was on sale and came with a FREE cutter. Yup you know me and the free stuff, sucked in everytime.
Eventually you will find cool mats that flip over to be a surface for pressing, or wee tiny mats, ideal for doing paper piecing. Add to your collection as needed but stick with the basics just to get started. Good brands that I would recommend for cutting mats are Olfa, Omnigrid, or Fiskars.
The Rotary Cutting Ruler.
First is a 6 by 24 inch ruler for doing all your piece cutting. There is also a new ruler available that measures 8 by 24 inches which you could buy instead. It can be nice when cutting an extra wide border but if you can only find the 6 inch, it will do just fine. The second ruler that is good to have is a square ruler, and I recommend a 12.5 by 12.5. This will allow you to square any size of block up to 12 inches.
As you progress in ability and try different types of patterns you may wish to buy rulers that make cutting easier. There are rulers for cutting triangles, for cutting multiple pieces at once, and even rulers for cutting circles - best idea ever, by the way! For now you can get by with these 2 rulers which I've described above.
Where can you find these quilting supplies?
Now I realize, not everyone has the luxury of 8 quilt shops in their local area. One good place that has a lot of quilting supplies is EBay.com. They often feature sales and discounts on shipping which can be a great incentive. Shopping by mail is fabulous for Canadians, as we can actually save a bit of money on tools and fabric.
This brings us to the end of lesson #4. Next week I will talk about Sewing Machines, which just happens to be my favorite subject, so I can hardly wait.
If you are itching to get started, I have just put together a Beginner Block of the Month Club for all my Visitors. There is a limited quantity, so if you are interested have a look here and sign up today... Block of The Month Club
BQTC #3 Selecting Thread for your Quilts
10/08/08 17:58 Filed in: BQTC #3
The number of different
threads available today is really quite impressive. The
only trouble with this great variety is choosing the
best thread for your needs. Here is a run down of
what's available and the suitable uses for each.
1. Cotton - Of course my number one choice! For any pieced patchwork job, machine or hand quilting, or binding, cotton should be the top choice. Since cotton fabric is most often the choice for discriminating quilters, it can only be paired with cotton thread. It is a fact that fabric and thread will deteriorate over time.
Should you choose to use cotton fabric and polyester thread, you will find that poly thread is stronger and will actually pull right through the cotton when it begins to break down.
Of course, we all hope this won't happen for many many years, but when it has become a long loved keepsake family heirloom, cotton on cotton will actually be a better choice.
Cotton thread is available in numerous weights, colors, and sizes. Something to remember in regards to thread weight is the SMALLER the number, the THICKER the thread.
For example 30 weight cotton thread will be thick, multi strand and also suitable for embroidery. 60 weight thread is often used for the bobbin when machine quilting. It becomes nearly invisible due to the light weight but this is something you can base on your own preference.
Piecing - I use Gutermann 50 weight thread on a 3000 yard cone. It is very affordable this way, and is available is neutral colors which are perfect for piecing. For light fabrics I'll use white or cream. Medium fabrics, I'll choose grey, and for dark fabrics I like to use black.
The reason for this is that when seams are folded open, you will always see your thread showing just the smallest bit. It won't be so noticeable if the thread is close to matching the fabric.
But imagine black fabric with white thread peeking through? Pretty noticeable right?
Machine Quilting - If I am using cotton for quilting, I like to use a weight that is noticeable. If I'm going to do all that gorgeous quilting, I want it to be seen! For this reason I will use a 30 or 40 weight cotton thread. Now what about color?
Generally I like to choose a color that’s already in my quilt, but doesn't disappear. It will depend on the look you are trying to achieve with your quilt. Many quilters like there stitches to blend, so they will choose the identical thread that matches their fabric.
This is a preference that you will develop over time and with experience.
2. Polyester - Likely the most commonly available thread, polyester comes in various sizes of spool and a wide variety of colors. Often used for garment making, and can also be labelled serger thread. In regards to quilting, I never use polyester when I am piecing fabric together. The ONLY time I might use polyester thread for piecing fabric would be if I were using fabric that was a poly/cotton blend. Polyester thread, however, can be used for machine quilting your quilt sandwich. Many reputable thread companies have high quality polyester threads available that will look stunning on your finished quilt.
Superior threads (http://www.superiorthreads.com/) has an amazing selection of beautiful polyester threads in various weights, colors, and even variegated (a thread that gradually changes color). I personally love using their threads for my Handi Quilter16 - a compact long arm sewing machine - and they even included some free samples with the machine. You've got to love FREE! I also know a couple of women who own APQS long arms, as well as a Gammill owner and they all love Superior Threads.
3. Rayon or Silk - A beautiful shiny thread which is stunning as top stitching on garments, and adds a lovely sheen to decorative quilting. I have used rayon very heavily while doing McTavish quilting on an applique art quilt. It was truly breathtaking and it should be used when you want the piece to shine. I would not recommend it for your baby's nine patch or any quilt that would require washing. Rayon does tend to be weak and the color may fade or leak if washed.
4. Metallic - Very reflective and not very strong. Good for art quilts, or a Christmas quilt. Remember to loosen your tension when using metallic threads.
5. Invisible Thread - Made of polyester, invisible is good for quilting you want to blend. This works if you can't find quite the right color or for stitch in the ditch (quilting along the seam lines). Not to be used in quilts for babies or children.
In summary, it seems that all types of thread can have their special place when it comes to quilting. Cotton is certainly a heavy favorite, and I've even met quilters who refuse to use anything but cotton. If you are ready to dabble in art quilts, the thread world is full of great possibilities. One thing that I always do when working with a new thread is to play around on a mini quilt sandwich. Use some scrap fabric and batting to practice your stitching. This will allow you to see your stitch length and check the tension and eliminate any possible troubles without putting them into your good quilt.
And The Winner Is....
1. Cotton - Of course my number one choice! For any pieced patchwork job, machine or hand quilting, or binding, cotton should be the top choice. Since cotton fabric is most often the choice for discriminating quilters, it can only be paired with cotton thread. It is a fact that fabric and thread will deteriorate over time.
Should you choose to use cotton fabric and polyester thread, you will find that poly thread is stronger and will actually pull right through the cotton when it begins to break down.
Of course, we all hope this won't happen for many many years, but when it has become a long loved keepsake family heirloom, cotton on cotton will actually be a better choice.
Cotton thread is available in numerous weights, colors, and sizes. Something to remember in regards to thread weight is the SMALLER the number, the THICKER the thread.
For example 30 weight cotton thread will be thick, multi strand and also suitable for embroidery. 60 weight thread is often used for the bobbin when machine quilting. It becomes nearly invisible due to the light weight but this is something you can base on your own preference.
My personal preferences for thread are:
Piecing - I use Gutermann 50 weight thread on a 3000 yard cone. It is very affordable this way, and is available is neutral colors which are perfect for piecing. For light fabrics I'll use white or cream. Medium fabrics, I'll choose grey, and for dark fabrics I like to use black.
The reason for this is that when seams are folded open, you will always see your thread showing just the smallest bit. It won't be so noticeable if the thread is close to matching the fabric.
But imagine black fabric with white thread peeking through? Pretty noticeable right?
Machine Quilting - If I am using cotton for quilting, I like to use a weight that is noticeable. If I'm going to do all that gorgeous quilting, I want it to be seen! For this reason I will use a 30 or 40 weight cotton thread. Now what about color?
Generally I like to choose a color that’s already in my quilt, but doesn't disappear. It will depend on the look you are trying to achieve with your quilt. Many quilters like there stitches to blend, so they will choose the identical thread that matches their fabric.
This is a preference that you will develop over time and with experience.
Other Options To Consider
2. Polyester - Likely the most commonly available thread, polyester comes in various sizes of spool and a wide variety of colors. Often used for garment making, and can also be labelled serger thread. In regards to quilting, I never use polyester when I am piecing fabric together. The ONLY time I might use polyester thread for piecing fabric would be if I were using fabric that was a poly/cotton blend. Polyester thread, however, can be used for machine quilting your quilt sandwich. Many reputable thread companies have high quality polyester threads available that will look stunning on your finished quilt.
One of my Favorites Brands
Superior threads (http://www.superiorthreads.com/) has an amazing selection of beautiful polyester threads in various weights, colors, and even variegated (a thread that gradually changes color). I personally love using their threads for my Handi Quilter16 - a compact long arm sewing machine - and they even included some free samples with the machine. You've got to love FREE! I also know a couple of women who own APQS long arms, as well as a Gammill owner and they all love Superior Threads.
My Pretties, Oh My Pretties!
3. Rayon or Silk - A beautiful shiny thread which is stunning as top stitching on garments, and adds a lovely sheen to decorative quilting. I have used rayon very heavily while doing McTavish quilting on an applique art quilt. It was truly breathtaking and it should be used when you want the piece to shine. I would not recommend it for your baby's nine patch or any quilt that would require washing. Rayon does tend to be weak and the color may fade or leak if washed.
4. Metallic - Very reflective and not very strong. Good for art quilts, or a Christmas quilt. Remember to loosen your tension when using metallic threads.
5. Invisible Thread - Made of polyester, invisible is good for quilting you want to blend. This works if you can't find quite the right color or for stitch in the ditch (quilting along the seam lines). Not to be used in quilts for babies or children.
In Other Words!
In summary, it seems that all types of thread can have their special place when it comes to quilting. Cotton is certainly a heavy favorite, and I've even met quilters who refuse to use anything but cotton. If you are ready to dabble in art quilts, the thread world is full of great possibilities. One thing that I always do when working with a new thread is to play around on a mini quilt sandwich. Use some scrap fabric and batting to practice your stitching. This will allow you to see your stitch length and check the tension and eliminate any possible troubles without putting them into your good quilt.
BQTC #2 Choosing your Quilt Fabric
21/07/08 22:57 Filed in: BQTC #2
Selecting Fabric for Quilting...
Here we are at fabric selection. This has got to be the most exciting part of a project! Going to the shop and seeing, feeling, and even smelling all the gorgeous textiles is enough to get you hooked on quilting. It can however be intimidating for some. I've met many new quilters who bring their mothers, grandmothers, aunts or friends with them to get some 'seasoned' advice on which fabrics to choose. Unfortunately not everyone has this option, nor are they willing to go and admit they need help from often pushy salespeople. So where is a new quilter to start?
Where To Start...
I like to recommend that quilters consider the future home of this quilt. Will it hang over your own bed? Perhaps in your child's room? Are you making a table runner or a wall hanging? Perhaps it will be a cozy rag quilt for the cottage. Once you know where the quilt will call home,then you can consider the color scheme of that room. A lap quilt for the cottage would be perfect in some rugged plaid flannels. Your little girls room could shine with a quilt made of purples or pinks. What color is the carpet or paint in your bedroom and what colors will match your decor?
Getting Ideas...
Consider other quilts you have seen in the past. What was attractive about them? What did you find unattractive? Are you drawn to Asian inspired prints? Do you tend to shy away from florals? Get an idea in your head of what you like and don't. This will be helpful when a salesperson is pushing their favorites on you. It can't be helped, we are all biased in some way!
Fabrics To Avoid...
There is one thing to consider in regards to beautiful fabrics like batiks. They are simply stunning, however I don't like to recommend batiks for beginner quilters, as they do not hide mistakes very well. Regular cottons are very forgiving, and they will 'heal' up holes of stitching that have been removed. Batiks tend to leave large noticeable holes. Save your batik investment for when you have become more experienced.
Time To Shop!...
Now that you have something to work with, lets head off to the fabric store, or maybe browse through some ebay listings. Have your pattern handy, and take it with you when you go shopping. It will tell you(for example) that you will need 4 darks, 2 mediums, and 4 lights. I can hear you saying.... What does this mean?!
As an example, lets say that black is your dark, gray is your medium, and white is your light. You would find 4 different black fabrics, 2 different grays, and 4 different whites. I saw you roll your eyes! Believe me you will have no trouble finding that many DIFFERENT fabrics of the very same color.
When I worked in the quilt shop we must have had 50 different bolts of white. Hard to imagine, but you will soon see.Now I'm sure that you have more imagination than quilting in just white, black, and gray. So try to imagine a deep violet or eggplant, a medium purple, and the lightest lavender. This will apply to every possible color.
Since you (hopefully!) have an idea of what colors you would like, start in that particular area of the fabric store. Browse the fabrics until something jumps out at you. Decide what category it falls into (light, medium, dark). Are there any other colors in the fabric? Say for example that it's a pink floral on a white background with green leaves. This fabric will help you work in other colors, like pinks, greens, and whites. Use these colors to choose the rest of your lights, mediums, and darks.
Don't expect to find every single fabric at your first stop. If you are lucky, and have several stores in your area, try to visit more than one. You may find a fabric at store number 2 that you prefer over store number 1. It may be tough, but resist the urge to buy the first thing you like. Try to explore your options first.
Be Prepared...
Now a few words ...
For quilting it is best to choose 100% cotton. Polyester blends are also available but they don't have the same results or feel as cotton after repeated washing.
Yardage: is the amount of fabric that is required to make your quilt. Here are a few terms that you should be familiar with.
Fat Quarter: A FQ usually measures 18 inches by 22 inches. Imagine a yard (36 inches by 44 inches) of fabric cut in half on the horizontal, then again on the vertical. This will give you four identical pieces, each a quarter yard that are actually a half yard wide rather than a tall and skinny quarter yard wide. This allows for better use of the fabric.
Fat Eighth: Similar to a fat quarter, measuring 9 inches by 22 inches.
Fabric is sold by the yard, and the price you see on the bolts will be per yard. For example, if the fabric is $15/yard, and you need 3 yards, you will pay $45 for that particular piece of fabric. Keep this in mind as you are browsing, so you will have some idea of what to expect at the till. Also, don't feel obligated to purchase batting or backing fabric right away. It will take you at least a couple of days to stitch your project together! Good Luck with selecting your quilting fabrics and please feel free to contact me with any questions or concerns you may have.
BQTC #1 Choosing a Quilt Pattern
21/07/08 22:30 Filed in: BQTC #1
Step #1 - Choosing A Quilting Pattern
Last week I discussed the outline of my Basic Quilting Techniques Course. This week we will go over step one, Choosing a Quilting Pattern.
Learning to quilt is such an exciting experience. I've spoken with many many new quilters who can't wait to get started, but are not sure how to get going.
I've also encountered many quilters, who've jumped in with extremely ambitious patterns, spent a fortune on fabric, and found themselves stuck, overwhelmed and unsure of how to carry on.
This is the reason that I like to recommend that beginner quilters start small.
Step one is choosing your first quilt pattern.
It is important to choose a pattern that is easy to complete. No, I do not mean a queen size quilt! More like a small wallhanging or perhaps a table runner. Even a baby quilt or lap quilt is quite reasonable, and should be easy to complete. Another advantage to choosing a small pattern is affordability. Here in Canada, we pay a small fortune for fabric so unfinished projects are simply not an option! LOL
Here are some great deals on quilt kits so that you can get a better idea of what a beginner quilting kit consists of.
How do you choose your quilting pattern?
Look for a pattern that is described as 'easy', 'fast', or 'simple'. This is a sure sign that you will be on your way to quilting success! You may even be fortunate to find a kit which will include a pattern and fabric together. This is very economical, as there will be no fabric wasted and makes color selection less of a chore.
Where to find your pattern for quilting. I have searched around to find some easy patterns for beginning quilters. They are attractive price wise, as well as in looks and techniques. If none of these patterns catch your eye, it will definitely give you an idea of where to begin.
BQTC Introduction
20/07/08 12:36 Filed in: Course
Intro
I am dividing the
quilting lessons up into easy weekly classes that you
can subscribe to through QuiltCetera's Yahoo Group.
I'm constantly adding to the list of beginner quilting topics for teaching you how to quilt.
We are starting with absolute basics to cover all bases. If you are a more experienced quilter, then consider this a review! You may surprise yourself and learn a new trick or tip that will help your quilts come out flawless.
This will create a solid foundation for quilters who are just starting out or have limited experience.
Are you looking for simple beginner projects to get started quilting? Want to learn to make a baby quilt or maybe a table runner. What ever it is you would like to learn, I would be more than happy to create a tutorial for you. Drop me a line!
happy quilting... Bradie
I'm constantly adding to the list of beginner quilting topics for teaching you how to quilt.
We are starting with absolute basics to cover all bases. If you are a more experienced quilter, then consider this a review! You may surprise yourself and learn a new trick or tip that will help your quilts come out flawless.
- Quilting Basics Tutorials
- Choosing a Quilting Pattern
- Selecting Fabrics for your Project
- What type of thread to use
- Tools: rotary cutter, ruler and cutting mat
- Sewing Machine and attachments
- Squaring Fabric
- Cutting Fabric including cross cutting
- Cross cutting fabric which is already sewn
- What is a scant quarter inch seam allowance and how to measure
- Chain piecing
- Corners and points
- Attaching sashing and borders
- Sandwiching quilts
- Basting quilts pin method vs stitching method
- Machine quilting on a domestic machine
- Cutting binding strips
- Joining binding strips
- Attaching binding
This will create a solid foundation for quilters who are just starting out or have limited experience.
Are you looking for simple beginner projects to get started quilting? Want to learn to make a baby quilt or maybe a table runner. What ever it is you would like to learn, I would be more than happy to create a tutorial for you. Drop me a line!
happy quilting... Bradie
